My Marrakech Travel Diary: Getting Lost, Loving It, and Learning Along the Way

First Impressions: I’ve just arrived in Marrakech, and it already feels like stepping into another world. The heat hits me the moment I step off the plane, and the air smells like spices and warm dust – I can tell I’m not in France anymore! I’m waiting for my airport pickup, sweating under the bright Moroccan sun, but I’m too excited to care. The sky is bluer here, the light more golden. It’s officially adventure time in Marrakech.

Wandering the Medina at Night – And Getting Totally Lost! 😅

On my first evening, I dive straight into the famous old city Medina. Picture a maze of narrow alleys with high ochre walls, bustling market stalls, and motorbikes zipping by. It’s thrilling but also disorienting. As daylight fades, I realize I might have underestimated how confusing these twisting lanes can be – and how dark some alleys get at night. My phone’s GPS starts acting up in the tight streets (classic!), and before I know it I’m properly lost trying to find my riad (traditional guesthouse).

For a moment, the unlit alleyways feel a bit spooky – I clutch my small flashlight and tripod tightly, alert to any movement. It’s quiet except for distant sounds of mopeds and chatter. Eventually, a friendly local notices my bewildered look and asks if I need help. Swallowing my pride, I accept. He points me in the right direction (of course not without suggesting I check out his cousin’s shop tomorrow – this is Marrakech after all, always an angle! 😂). A few twists and turns later, I finally spot the sign for my riad. Relief washes over me as I step inside the ornate courtyard. Note to self: the Medina is almost impossible to navigate without getting lost as a first-time visitor – embrace it as part of the experience!

Despite the initial confusion, I love the Medina’s energy. Even at night, there’s a buzz – small shops still open selling lamps and leather, the smell of tagine cooking, cats slinking around, and the distant beat of drums from Jemaa el-Fna square. It feels safe enough if you stick to the busier lanes, but I was glad to reach my riad before it got too late. Travel tip: if you’re wandering after dark, stay where there are street lights and people, or carry a phone with data to navigate (and maybe a power bank because you will use Google Maps a lot).

Day 1: Historic Sights and Souk Shopping Spree

Bright and early, I’m up for my first full day in Marrakech – fueled by a delicious Moroccan breakfast on my riad’s rooftop (think: fresh breads, jams, eggs, and the best mint tea 🌿). First on my list is the Ben Youssef Madrasa (Medersa Ben Youssef), an ancient Islamic college renowned for its architecture. The entry fee is only about 50 dirhams (~5€) and it’s worth every penny. The moment I step inside, I’m blown away by the intricate zellige mosaic tiles and carved cedar wood everywhere. Every wall, arch, and courtyard is covered in jaw-dropping detail – it’s basically an Instagrammer’s dream backdrop. I learned it was originally built in the 16th century and was once the largest Islamic college in North Africa. It was closed for a while for renovations and only reopened to the public in 2022 after restoration, so it’s in beautiful shape. There are reflective pools in the courtyard mirroring the mosaics, and little student dorm rooms you can peek into. It’s packed with tourists by mid-morning (I had to wait my turn to snap photos in the best spots), but the peaceful aura of the place still shines through. I’d recommend going right at opening time if you want to avoid crowds. I spent about an hour wandering and taking photos – and fun fact, I think I discovered a new hobby: photography! I usually use my camera for vlogging, but here I was channeling my inner art director, framing shots of every doorway and patterned wall.

Leaving the madrasa, I plunge into the souks (markets) surrounding it. The alleys are lined with shops selling colorful ceramics, lamps, rugs, and jewelry. The vendors are pros at drawing you in – it’s all “Bonjour, come take a look, good price for you my friend!” I make my first purchase: a pretty orange statement ring that matches my outfit. The seller initially says “60 dirhams”. I laugh and channel my inner Moroccan and counter with “No, 30!”. We banter, I walk away, he comes running with a “okay okay best price for you.” Finally, we agree on 40 dirhams (around €4). Score! 🙌 It’s stainless steel (he even pointed out the “stainless” engraving to assure me), which is a steal because similar rings cost me €24 back home in France. The bargaining here is honestly kind of fun once you get the hang of it. Travel tip: Haggling is expected in the souks – start at half or even a third of the initial price and settle somewhere in the middle. And only bargain if you actually want the item; it’s poor form to agree on a price and then walk away. I walked off with my new ring feeling pretty proud of myself.

After all that shopping and dodging enthusiastic shopkeepers, I need a break. I head to Le Jardin Secret, a tranquil oasis in the middle of the Medina. Entry was 80 MAD (about €8) for me (they offer a small youth discount for under-24, yay student perks). Le Jardin Secret turned out to be a restored riad-palace with gorgeous gardens and a little museum. It’s actually one of the largest and oldest palatial complexes in the Medina, dating back to the 19th century, with two big gardens and one of the tallest towers in Marrakech’s old city. Inside, it’s so peaceful – a lush hideaway from the chaotic streets outside. I wander along the shaded paths, past fountains and fruit trees, feeling the temperature drop a few blissful degrees. There’s even a cafe where I sit for a bit, sipping a cold drink while surrounded by greenery and the sound of birds. It’s hard to believe just an hour ago I was elbowing through crowded markets, and now I’m in this paradise-like garden. If you need a respite from the hustle, I highly recommend this spot. (They also have free WiFi and some interesting informational displays about the history of the place, which appealed to the nerd in me.)

By early afternoon, I realize I haven’t had a proper lunch yet. It’s strange – the heat (around 35°C/95°F) kinda suppresses my appetite. I’ve been guzzling water and nibbling on the snacks from breakfast, but I know I should eat something substantial, especially with more adventures planned. I decide to head to the Jemaa el-Fna square – the heart of Marrakech – to grab a quick bite. Even during the day, this famous square is alive (though it really comes alive at night). I find a food stall selling freshly squeezed orange juice (a must in Marrakech – it’s ice cold, sweet and costs like 10 MAD, ~$1) and a snack (a kefta sandwich – basically spiced meatballs in bread). Perfect fuel for what’s coming next: pool time!

Pool Day Drama: Burkini Blues 🏊‍♀️

So, here’s where my day gets interesting. It’s blazing hot, and I’m dreaming of a pool. I arranged via an app (InDrive – a popular local rideshare) to go to a day-use pool at a nice hotel just outside the city. I won’t name and shame, but I chose it because for 250 MAD (~€25) I could use their pool and facilities for the afternoon. Sounded great! I arrive, change into my burkini (for those unfamiliar, a burkini is a full-cover swimwear, like leggings and a tunic, that some Muslim women wear – I prefer it for personal comfort). I’m about to dive in when a staff member approaches me apologetically: burkinis are not allowed in their pool. I’m stunned. We’re in a majority-Muslim country, it’s 2025, and this is a rule? To avoid a scene, I double-check if he’s serious. He is. My afternoon of relaxation suddenly turns into me sitting awkwardly by the pool, fully clothed, feeling singled out and frustrated. Essentially, I paid 25€ to read a book by a pool I can’t swim in. Not cool. 😣

Rather than stew in anger (or sweat, as it were), I decide to leave. I politely explain I won’t be using the pool after all. The staff, to their credit, were understanding – one manager even said since I was by myself and hadn’t used any services, I didn’t need to pay the full fee. I ended up only paying a small amount for my time there (and the taxi ride over, unfortunately). It was disappointing, but lesson learned: always check pool dress codes if you plan on wearing anything other than a standard swimsuit. Some high-end places in Morocco strangely do have policies against certain swimwear. The upside? I cut my losses and headed back to my own hotel riad, which had a small plunge pool in the courtyard. It might not have been a luxe infinity pool, but trust me, in the Marrakech summer heat even a tiny pool feels heavenly. I spent the rest of the afternoon cooling off there – no dress code issues when you have the pool to yourself! 😂

By early evening, I’m refreshed and ready to venture out for dinner. Solo travel has its lonely moments, but it also opens you up to meeting new people. Earlier at the riad’s pool, I struck up a conversation with two girls who were also staying there – turns out they’re from Berlin and around my age. They were super friendly and we bonded over our Marrakech mishaps (one of them had gotten lost in the souks for two hours that morning, so I didn’t feel so bad about my navigational woes!). They have plans with other friends tonight, so we exchange Instas and might link up later in the trip.

Café Culture: Sunset at Café des Épices ☕️

One thing I love about Marrakech is how many rooftop cafes there are. As the sun starts to set, I head to a popular one called Café des Épices (translated: Spice Café) in the Medina. I actually found it from a TikTok recommendation – people raved about the views and affordable eats. The cafe is in a small square in the souk area, with several floors of seating. I snag a spot on the top terrace. From here, I can see the sun glowing orange over the jumble of markets and mosque minarets. With a gentle breeze finally cutting the daytime heat, it’s pure magic. 🌇

I order a classic Moroccan mint tea and a kefta tagine (spiced meatball stew) with bread. It hits the spot without breaking the bank (indeed, prices here cater to both tourists and locals – very reasonable). As I sit there journaling about my day, I notice something funny: a few shopkeepers downstairs are trying to guess where I’m from. Earlier, a vendor thought I was Moroccan (probably because of my hijab/burkini and I speak a bit of French). Then when they hear my accent in French, they go “Ah, Marseillaise?” – people keep assuming I’m from Marseille! I had to laugh. When I tell one friendly guy I’m actually from Paris, he jokes, “You’re too nice to be Parisian!” Apparently, we Parisians have a reputation for being rude – ouch. 😅 But hey, travel is about breaking stereotypes, right?

Dinner is delicious, the ambiance is perfect, and by the end of it I’m pleasantly exhausted. I decide to head back to my riad to get a good night’s sleep – tomorrow is going to be a big day (hint: desert adventure awaits!). Walking back through the Medina around 9 PM, I feel quite safe – many shops are just closing up, but there are still people around and the air is cooler. With my tripod tucked securely in my bag and my phone’s flashlight guiding me through dim corners, I reach the riad with no wrong turns this time (hooray!). I collapse onto my cozy bed in my beautifully decorated room (carved wooden ceiling, colorful tiled bathroom – so charming) and fall asleep to the distant sound of drums from the square. What a day.

Day 2: Desert Dreams in Agafay 🌵🚗

Morning in Marrakech, Round 2. I wake up to another gorgeous sunny day and a text confirming my afternoon excursion: I’m going to the Agafay Desert! This is a rocky desert area about 40 km outside Marrakech (roughly a 50-minute drive from the city). It’s not the Sahara with giant dunes, but it offers that desert feel without needing a multi-day trip. I’m stoked.

Since the desert trip is later, I have the morning free. I wander aimlessly through the Medina’s backstreets (getting a little lost again, but I don’t mind at all this time – I stumble upon a quiet neighborhood where locals are doing their shopping, kids playing, and hardly any tourists in sight. This feels like the “real” Marrakech beyond the tourist trail). I eventually find my way to an area famous for its tanneries – where they dye leather in large pits. I’ve heard it’s a fascinating (if smelly) place to see, but when I peek from afar, I notice the workers busy at their craft and zero other visitors around. I decide not to wander in alone, partly not to intrude and partly because I wasn’t ready to handle the intense smells first thing in the morning. Maybe next time with a guide!

I loop back toward the more central souk streets to pick up a few souvenirs I had my eye on. Yesterday’s reconnaissance of the market means today I can target-buy: I grab some pretty bracelets for my friends back home and a box of Moroccan pastries (because my sweet tooth will not be denied, and I suspect I’ll need snacks for the desert later).

Soon, it’s time for the desert excursion. I meet up with a small tour group that’s going – and surprise, the two Berlin girls I met are on the same trip! Along with a few other travelers, we hop into a 4×4 and head out of the city. The drive to Agafay is scenic – as the city buildings fade, we pass through palm groves and then into arid, rolling hills that stretch to the horizon. It’s hard to believe we were in the chaos of Marrakech an hour ago; out here it’s quiet except for the wind.

We arrive at a desert camp that looks straight out of a movie – think large Bedouin-style tents, a central courtyard with plush cushions, and even a swimming pool with desert views (yes, a pool in the middle of the desert – talk about glamping!). In the distance are the Atlas Mountains creating a stunning backdrop. The organizers have a whole afternoon and evening of activities for us. First up: quad biking 🏍️ across the rocky terrain. I’ve never driven a quad before, and I’m a little nervous, but once I start, it’s exhilarating. We roar over small hills, kicking up dust, occasionally yelling “Woohoo!” at the sheer fun of it. I may or may not have gotten stuck in a sandy patch at one point – but hey, it’s all part of the adventure.

After quads, we take a more peaceful ride: camel trekking during sunset. It’s the cliché Morocco experience and I absolutely love it. My camel (I named him Jamal for the evening) plods along as the sky turns pink and gold. There’s a quietness in the Agafay Desert that is hard to describe – just the soft sounds of camels and the breeze. We stop on a hilltop to watch the sunset; it’s breathtaking and makes me feel so grateful to be here in this moment.

Back at camp, dinner is served under the stars – traditional Moroccan fare with tagine, salads, and plenty of mint tea. There’s even a bit of live music around a campfire. By now our little group feels like a band of friends – sharing travel stories and Instagram handles. The stars above are incredibly bright without city lights around. We all lie back on cushions and do some stargazing; I even see a shooting star. ✨

We return to Marrakech late at night, dusty, tired, but extremely happy. I say goodbye to the new friends I made (those Berlin girls and I promise to meet for coffee tomorrow – travel friendships escalate quickly!). I crash into bed, feeling like I’ve lived a whole lifetime in a single day.

Day 3: Modern Marrakech – R&R in Gueliz and One Last Pool Hurrah

It’s my final full day in Marrakech, and a friend of mine who lives here, H, has offered to show me around the modern part of the city. After two days in the historic quarters, I’m curious to see the Ville Nouvelle (new city). We meet in Gueliz, the trendy European-influenced district. It’s such a contrast to the Medina: wide boulevards, modern shops, cafes, and a more laid-back vibe. You almost feel like you’re in a different city. H jokes that I’ve “graduated” from tourist life to seeing how young locals hang out.

For lunch, we opt for some international cuisine – as much as I adore tagines and couscous, H has been craving something different. We find a chic café that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris or Barcelona, and indulge in gourmet burgers and smoothies. Marrakech has surprisingly diverse food options; in Gueliz and Hivernage (another modern area), you can get everything from sushi to Italian. It’s a nice reminder that while I love immersing myself in local food, sometimes a taste of home is okay too.

Now, both of us are keen on a pool day (the Marrakech heat demands it). We decide to splurge a bit and check out one of the famed luxury pool clubs on the outskirts of town. There’s one we heard of (ironically named Snob Beach Club, ha!) that looked fun. We actually made a reservation the day before. The deal we saw was 300 MAD (~€30) for a day-pass – pricey, but we figured for a fancy place it’s alright. What we didn’t realize is that once we arrive, the staff informs us that 300 MAD is just the entry fee; if we want a sunbed by the pool, it’s an additional 1000 MAD (yes, you read that right, 1000 dirhams = ~€100) as a minimum spend or fee! We both look at each other like, nope, not happening. That would be 130€ just to swim and sit by a pool – more than I spent in three days of sightseeing combined. We politely tell them that must be a misunderstanding because we thought the bed was included. At first, they stick to the policy, but as we’re literally about to walk out (the place was not very full, being a weekday), the manager comes over. With a big smile, he says since it’s quiet, he’ll waive the extra fee and give us a sunbed at no extra charge, as long as we cover the 300 MAD entry and whatever food/drinks we order. Deal! We couldn’t believe our luck – I guess it was a mini-lesson in “if you can’t afford it, act like you’re ready to leave, and maybe you’ll get a discount”. 😂

And oh my, what a day we have. Snob Beach (or whatever cheeky name it chooses) turns out to be glamorous: huge swimming pool, live DJ playing chill beats, waiters delivering fancy mocktails to your sunbed, beautiful people lounging in designer swimwear. We settle into our generously “comped” daybed feeling like VIPs who pulled off a heist. The sun is strong but we’re slathered in SPF and finally able to wear normal swim attire (I’m in a one-piece now, learned my lesson!). We spend hours just sunbathing, swimming, and reading, occasionally ordering a drink or snack. Yes, the menu is exorbitant (I think a soda was like 50 MAD, ~€5), but we figure since we saved on the bed fee, we’ll treat ourselves a little.

At one point, soaking in the pool with the palm trees swaying overhead, I glance at H and we both just start laughing. Two days ago I was trekking through alleys and bargaining for dollar trinkets, and now I’m sipping a virgin mojito in what feels like a Vegas day club in the middle of Morocco. Marrakech truly has many faces. And that’s the thing – you can experience the rustic charm of the old city and the glitz of modern luxury all in one trip.

As the afternoon wanes, we reluctantly pry ourselves from the comfy sunbed. H has to head home, and I have a mission: last-minute souvenir shopping! Tomorrow I fly out, and I cannot go home without gifts for family. I race back to the Medina (probably looking a bit funny in my casual Western clothes and beach hair, speed-walking through the traditional market streets). I manage to buy some spices (saffron, ras el hanout blend, etc.), a pair of babouches (traditional leather slippers) for my brother, and some argan oil products for friends. Haggling in a hurry is not ideal, but my souk skills are sharp by now – I think I struck some decent deals. The shops start closing around sunset, and I need to pack, so I skip a fancy dinner and grab a street-food bite (a final fix of piping hot chebakia cookies and a cup of spiced tea).

Back at the riad, I somehow zip up my suitcase filled with new treasures and memories. I spend my last night on the rooftop, under the Marrakech stars, reflecting on this journey. From getting lost in the Medina to dancing under the desert sky, from the serenity of secret gardens to the chaos of market haggling, I’ve experienced so many sides of Marrakech in just a few days. This city has challenged me (hello, navigation and cultural differences), but also embraced me with its warmth (shoutout to all the kind strangers and new friends I met).

Before I turn in, I jot down a few travel tips I learned, hoping future me (or anyone reading this) will find them handy:

• Stay hydrated and pace yourself: Marrakech heat is no joke, especially in summer. Always carry water and don’t be ashamed to take midday breaks (locals do too!).
• Embrace getting lost: The Medina is a labyrinth – getting a bit lost is part of the fun. Just keep landmarks in mind (like tall minarets) and maybe download an offline map. And if a “helpful local” offers unsolicited guidance to your destination, be aware they’ll expect a tip (it’s okay to say no politely and find your own way to avoid common scams).
• Haggle with humor: Bargaining is expected in markets. Always counteroffer lower with a smile. It helps to know a few numbers in French or Arabic. Don’t haggle if you’re not truly interested in buying, and remember, a small amount means more to the vendor than it does to you – so haggle fair.
• Dress respectfully (but comfortably): In the city, opt for loose, breathable clothing that covers your knees and shoulders – you’ll blend in more and feel comfortable. At resorts or modern hotels, Western swimwear is fine, but note that some swanky pools bizarrely don’t allow full-coverage swimwear. Pack accordingly or double-check policies.
• Plan for diverse experiences: Marrakech has it all – history, culture, adventure, and luxury. Mix it up! Do the cultural sites (museums, palaces, gardens), but also consider a hammam spa, a cooking class, or a day trip to the mountains or desert. A balanced itinerary will make your trip richer.

Final Thoughts

Leaving Marrakech is bittersweet. I came seeking an adventure and I found it – plus a bit of wisdom along the way. This city taught me to expect the unexpected: one minute you’re savoring street food in a centuries-old square, next you’re lounging by a DJ-backed pool club. I learned that being a tourist here is as much about the surprises as the sights. Marrakech showed me overwhelming hospitality and, at times, overwhelming sensory overload – and I loved both.

For international travelers reading this: Marrakech is an experience like no other. It might test your patience once or twice (honestly, crossing the street or haggling can be an extreme sport), but it will also reward you with memories for a lifetime. Whether you’re a backpacker, a luxury seeker, a history buff, or a bit of everything (like me), Marrakech has something for you. Just come with an open mind, an open heart, and maybe leave a little extra space in your luggage for all the fabulous things you’ll want to bring back.

Shukran (thank you), Marrakech – until next time! 💖

🍭🍭 Credit: Vlog solo trip — Morroco, Marrakech