An Evening of Street Food in Rabat Medina (With a Toddler in Tow)

Walking through the gate into Rabat’s medina at night, the first thought that pops into my head is simple: this is a very nice entrance. The lights, the bustle, the soft evening air – everything feels warm and welcoming. We’d originally planned to take our daughter to the park, but we got there and… it was closed. The cats, however, were still inside living their best lives.

So we changed the plan. If you can’t play in the park, you go eat in the medina. Street food night in Rabat it is.

This post is a write-up of that evening: what we ate, how it felt to wander the medina with a toddler, and some honest impressions that might help you if you’re thinking of adding Rabat to your Morocco itinerary.

First Stop: Liver Sandwiches and a Curious Toddler

My previous experience of Rabat’s medina was mostly at night during Ramadan – lots of atmosphere, but not much slow wandering. This time, we came with one clear mission: street food for dinner.

Our first stall is a classic Moroccan grill setup. On the counter:

• Chicken liver with onion
• Meatballs
• Sausages
• And what I really wanted… beef liver (which, sadly for me, they didn’t have that night)

So I go for the chicken liver sandwich instead. The guy behind the grill puts it together with onions, fries it up, and hands it over with a smile and a “it’s very delicious”.

He’s right. It is delicious – rich, a bit smoky, and surprisingly comforting. Our daughter, Romy, gets a piece to try (after we blow on it for about an hour because it’s lava hot). She hesitates, then goes for it. Her verdict? Some mysterious baby combination of “yes”, “no”, and “mama” – which we decide means “more”.

One thing we quickly learn: toddlers in Morocco love bread. I hand her the end of my sandwich – just bread with a bit of grease and flavor – and she’s in heaven. Fancy fillings are optional. Greasy bread is life.

Getting a Bit Lost (and Finding More Temptation)

After that first win, we wander deeper into the medina. At one point we joke that we took a wrong turn because suddenly… no food stalls. Just fabric shops, clothing racks and everyday local life.

We do some window-shopping and spot long women’s dresses for around 50–80 dirhams, which is a great deal if you’re in the mood for some wardrobe upgrades between bites.

We keep walking, convinced food will appear again if we just trust the medina. Sometimes it feels like a “food desert” for a few minutes, then suddenly you’re surrounded by smells of grilled meat and fresh bread again. That’s part of the charm: you’re not just going from restaurant to restaurant, you’re exploring a living neighborhood.

We pass trays of sweets, but it feels too early in the night to commit to dessert. Street food is a marathon, not a sprint.

Juice Heaven: Pomegranate, Mango and Sugarcane

Moroccan medinas are basically open-air juice bars, and Rabat is no exception.

First up is fresh pomegranate juice – 100% pure, tart, and intense. It feels like I’m getting my antioxidants in before the “junk food” portion of the evening kicks in.

Later, at a chicken place, they bring out a mango juice for our daughter without us even asking. It ends up being the best juice of the trip so far. Smooth, sweet, and exactly what a tired little traveler needs.

And then there’s the classic: fresh sugarcane juice.
We watch as the vendor feeds long sticks of sugarcane through the press, sometimes with lemon or ginger. Our daughter’s version? Sugar. Just sugar and sugar. She loves it – though honestly, I’m not sure sugarcane is really “for babies”. She mostly wants the straw, like every toddler on earth.

What stands out isn’t just the taste, it’s the generosity:

• Free samples
• Extra juice
• A free drink for the baby at the chicken stand

You often hear horror stories online about people being scammed or taken advantage of in Morocco. Our experience in Rabat’s medina was the opposite: overwhelmingly kind and generous people. We do suspect that one juice stand overcharged a little (the sign said 15, we paid 20), but it was such a tiny difference that it felt more like a rounding error than a rip-off.

The Famous “Habaria” and the Crispy Chicken Trap

Somewhere in the maze, we meet what becomes the unofficial star of the evening: the “habria” sandwich – a mix of onions, sausage, and liver all cooked together. You’ll see variations of this everywhere in Moroccan medinas, sometimes with cheese, always full of flavor and a little messy in the best way.

There are also the “grain guys”: stalls completely covered in grains, toppings and fillings, offering loaded sandwiches that are like Moroccan Subway – but in our opinion, better. Names like “Zaza Pro Max” on the signs add to the fun.

What really wins me over, though, is the crispy chicken stand.
They hand me a sample: hot, freshly fried chicken strips with sauce. That’s it. I’m done. I go straight in for a full sandwich.

Biting into it feels strangely like being back in the US – familiar, comforting, but with its own local twist. Honestly, it’s better than KFC. Super crispy, juicy inside, and served with a smile for around 15 dirhams.

Our daughter gets a few bites (minus the sauce), and she’s fully on board. This is the kind of street food that’s easy for tourists who might be a bit nervous about more “adventurous” options like liver. If you’re easing yourself into Moroccan street food, crispy chicken in the medina is a solid, safe starting point.

Sweet Finish: Harsha, Desserts and Pizza Since 1992

Eventually, you have to face the dessert stalls. The medina gets busier as the night goes on, and everyone seems to be thinking the same thing: time for something sweet.

We go for harsha – a traditional semolina flatbread, lightly crispy on the outside and soft inside. Simple, but incredibly satisfying. It’s perfect toddler food, and our daughter happily nibbles away while sharing bites with us.

We chat with some locals and other visitors, and the vibe is relaxed and friendly. One vendor asks where we’re from; later on at a pizza place, the guy at the counter tells us he watches our videos and insists on giving us a slice on the house.

And that pizza? Just cheese, nothing fancy – but seriously good.
Crispy crust, melted cheese, and, according to the sign, the place has been serving pizza in the medina since 1992. Our daughter approves, and that’s saying a lot. She even negotiates to keep the crust while “Baba” gets the rest.

By this point we’re completely full, still carrying around some leftover shawarma, and trying to convince a very happy, very awake toddler that it’s almost 9 p.m. and time to go home.

Final Thoughts: Why Rabat Medina Surprised Us

Rabat often gets overshadowed by cities like Marrakech, Fes or Chefchaouen in typical Morocco itineraries, but our night of street food in the medina honestly surprised us in the best way.

Here’s what stood out:

• Family-friendly vibe: Walking the medina with a toddler in the evening felt totally manageable. People smiled at her, offered her little treats, and were endlessly patient.
• Affordable, tasty food: From 10–15 dirham sandwiches to freshly pressed juices, you can eat well on a reasonable budget.
• Local authenticity without overwhelming chaos: Compared to some other Moroccan medinas, Rabat’s felt lively but not overwhelming, touristy yet still very local.
• Real human warmth: Free samples, extra juice, free pizza, and genuine conversations made the night memorable beyond just “we ate street food”.

If you’re planning a trip to Morocco and wondering whether Rabat is worth a stop: yes, especially if you enjoy food, local life and slower, more relaxed cities. Spend an evening in the medina, follow your nose, and don’t be afraid to try that mystery sandwich on the grill.

And if you’re traveling with kids? Bring wipes, go with the flow, share your bread… and they’ll probably have as good a time as you do.

Credit: Rabat Medina at Night : Moroccan Street Food & the Magic of Morocco’s Capital